I have a bunch of Magic Eye tubes and was wondering what to do with them. An audio VU meter with a microphone pickup could make a nice magical flickering display as I originally described here: An Angel Dancing On a Pin Head.
The example Rusky circuit works, but it needs much more gain to work with a microphone and it needs a power supply of sorts. So, I dusted the old circuit off, hooked up a little triode as an amplifier to drive the display tube and my prototype works nicely. Moving the resultant rat's nest from the breadboard into a proper display case is another matter though.
The 6E1P / EM80 is super simple, since the Target and Anode are connected together internally, so you don't have to. It operates at a rather high 250V:
- Pin 1: Gate
- Pin 2: Cathode
- Pins 4, 5: Heater
- Pin 7: Anode
- Pin 9: Screen
Viewed from the bottom pin side, the pins are numbered clock wise, starting at the gap on the right.
The 6N21B miniature dual valve pin-out is as follows:
- Pin 1: k1
- Pin 2: s
- Pin 3: g1
- Pin 4: a1
- Pin 5: h
- Pin 6: k2
- Pin 7: no pin
- Pin 8: g2
- Pin 9: a2
- Pin 10: h
Because the double triode is physically small, the operating voltage is lower than normal at 'only' 100V.
For a little toy like this, a pair of huge transformers will increase the cost and their bulk will detract from the whole idea, so I made a simple direct mains powered supply - shocking, eh...
A magic eye tube is a tiny cathode ray tube as in old TV sets and requires a very high operating voltage. So I used a voltage doubler on the 220 V mains. That ensures that the electrons have sufficient kinetic energy to penetrate surface pollutants and stimulate the ancient zinc oxide fluorescent display properly. High voltage capacitors are costly and one 630V electrolytic could cost as much as a transformer. Put two identical(!) 315 V caps in series - much cheaper.
The miniature triode needs a much lower voltage, so I made a simple half wave rectifier for that. So far - fairly standard. The triode output is envelope detected to create a negative voltage to drive the display tube gate - any small signal diode will work - a 1N4148 is cheap. You can put a trimmer on the display tube cathode to adjust the DC bias and together with the input volume control, get the shadow to flicker properly.
The heaters require about 300 mA (I have measured 280 to 370 mA) at 6.3 V. So for that, I made a simple triac light dimmer circuit (test it with a light bulb and set it to minimum) with the two heaters in series (I used a quadrac - one less part). To get the right current, install a 1 Ohm resistor in series with the tubes, measure the RMS voltage over it and tweak the trimmer - then maybe put a spot of glue/wax on it.
The fuse and chokes provide some protection and spike/triac noise filtering. You can wind your own chokes - a few turns on a ferrite toroid or ferrite cable clamp (easier to wind, since you can wind it while it is open!) is all that's needed.
Another (more expensive) solution, which avoids the triac noise, is to use a series capacitor to power the heaters. You would need to use a capacitor that can handle the continuous current and high voltage. You need to hook the tubes to a power supply at 6.3 V and measure the current once they warmed up and then select a suitable series element. One possibility is a 4 uF Motor Run Film Capacitor Mouser Part No: 80-C276CC34400AA0J. Here is the formula: C uF = 159155 x 0.3A / 50 Hz x sqrt(230V^2 - 12.6V^2) = 4.16 uF
As with any thermionic valve circuit, this one is dangerously 'hot' and noisy. So when this toy is running, keep yer cotton picken fingers in yer pokkets - else you will be sorry. I have a rubber mat on my shop floor, got zapped a few times and I'm still here...